“If you want to catch a beast you don’t see every day. You have to go places quite out of the way. You have to go places no others can get to. You have to get cold and you have to get wet, too” ~ Dr Seuss
Love, love, love that quote by Dr Seuss about venturing out to hunt for beasts in the most difficult and isolated places, the kind of places where you’ll get wet, cold, and maybe a little lost. Well, the places I went were far beyond cold … aha! We’re talking sub-zero, freezing, icy kind of cold.
From Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia to Lake Baikal in Southeast Siberia, I travelled across these breathtaking lands via the legendary Trans-Siberian Railway.
In this post, I’ll be sharing a glimpse of our journey. Along with the actual transportation costs, in the hope of inspiring you to be a little more adventurous, and to step outside your comfort zone to see the world differently.
Definitely one of the most chilling journeys of my life.
I haven’t been to the North or South Pole yet, so I can’t compare, but I was told that in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, -36°C during winter is considered normal. Yep, just another regular day for the locals … but for a tropical girl like me, that’s already beyond “cold.” 🥶 Now I can’t help but wonder… how cold is the actual pole then?!
For almost two years, I’d been dreaming of exploring Mongolia.
Many friends cautioned me that a trip to Mongolia and Russia could be tricky and costly, probably because English isn’t widely spoken there. Still, early this year (2017), out of the blue, I shared a Facebook post about the Kazakh eagle hunters of Mongolia. Not long after, a trekker friend I’d met on a previous trip messaged me, inviting me to join his backpacking adventure across China, Mongolia, Russia, and Europe — all by the legendary Trans-Siberian Railway.
Being my usual spontaneous self with a “why not?” attitude, I jumped right in. Though I decided to join only for the first half of their journey, about 15 days, covering Mongolia and Lake Baikal in Southeast Siberia.
We started our journey in Beijing. I flew solo from Kuala Lumpur and met Areza and Azli at the airport. After picking up our train tickets, we hopped aboard the legendary Trans-Siberian Railway, heading from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, before continuing onward to Russia.
Crossing borders in winter is an adventure of its own. The snow, the long queues, and the officers who barely speak English. Between the language barrier and the immigration procedures, patience wasn’t just a virtue; it was a survival skill.
That’s when I truly appreciated how blessed I was with my travel companions. Though it was my first time travelling with them, we clicked instantly, wickedly well, in fact. The understanding, the tolerance, the shared laughter … Alhamdulillah, I couldn’t have asked for better company.
Some people love travelling solo, but this trip made me realise that I’m not one of them. Having good companions is a gift, especially when you’re stuck on a train for days or trudging through places where Wi-Fi (and warmth) are just distant dreams.
We spent 27 hours on the Trans-Siberian Railway from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar (RM1,340), explored Mongolia for eight amazing days, and then continued another 35-hour journey to Irkutsk, Southeast Siberia (RM822). The train ride was surprisingly comfortable, with heaters keeping us toasty the whole way.
Our only challenge? The power sockets! There was just one, which was in the hallway. So, imagine a bunch of travellers huddled by the corridor, guarding their charging phones like squirrels protecting their winter nuts.
We finally reached Irkutsk in the early hours of the morning, caught a taxi ride from the train station (200/ 500 rubles), and headed straight to the bus terminal. Luck was on our side as the 10 a.m. bus to Olkhon Island, Lake Baikal, was just across the street (800/ 1,100 rubles per person).
Everything went smoothly, except for one thing … the language barrier. English in this part of Russia felt like an alien language! Still, somehow, with a mix of gestures, smiles, and pure luck, we made it through. ((actual cost/ ripped off cost)
For the three of us, it felt like landing on another planet — everything looked surreal, almost too beautiful to be real. It was bone-freezing cold, the kind that makes your eyelashes frost over, but every moment spent there was absolutely priceless.
We stayed four days exploring both the north (800 rubles) and south (1,000 rubles) sides of the frozen lake. Just a few days before we arrived, it had snowed heavily, blanketing most of the ice in soft white powder — not the clearest glass-like Baikal we’d hoped for, but still a breathtaking sight.
We booked our accommodation online and decided to take it easy with our transport plans since everything online seemed way overpriced. In the end, we found that travelling around Olkhon Island was surprisingly convenient. Our shared hostel was cosy, our hosts were helpful, and getting rides to and from the island turned out to be much easier (and cheaper!) than expected.
We took a public bus back from Olkhon Island to Irkutsk for about 800 rubles per person, then grabbed a car from the bus station to our hostel, which, to our surprise, was only a few kilometres away. (200 rubles or was it 500? 😂 Well… opportunists are everywhere, and things just happen!)
We spent a day wandering around Irkutsk — an industrial city that, in winter, looked rather quiet and grey. Not much to see this round, but who knows? Maybe one day I’ll come back and explore more of Russia’s hidden corners.
I won’t lie — it was tough. But that’s the thing: not everyone gets to experience this kind of raw journey, and comfort rarely teaches us anything new. If you want to truly learn about life, you’ve got to step out of your comfort zone.
If there’s one thing this journey taught me, it’s that travelling as a true traveller — not a touch-and-go tourist — changes you. It matures you, challenges your patience, and humbles you. I understand that this kind of adventure isn’t for everyone. The route from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar and onward to Lake Baikal is no easy feat. You need good health, preparation, and a heart that’s ready to embrace discomfort.
And as for me… I’m still pushing myself a little further every day.
Owhhh… I’m getting sleepy now. Power nap calling! Gotta run… bye for now! 😴
Cheers,
MM
MATSUDA MASHIMARU 