Reciprocal kindness in Kalash Valley

I hate the use of the word busy.

“Oh, I’ve been busy.”
“Much busier than you.”
As if life has turned into a quiet competition on who is carrying the heaviest load.

To me, being busy often sounds less like a fact and more like an excuse. A polite way of saying, I chose not to spend my time with you. Because time, after all, is never truly lost. Mind you, that time is allocated. And when someone tells you they are “too busy,” what they are really saying is that their time has been given elsewhere, to something or someone they deemed more important in that moment.

It’s a hard truth, but an honest one. We all make choices. We all prioritise. And sometimes, “busy” is simply the safest word to hide behind when we don’t want to admit those choices out loud.

Hmm… perhaps I’m being a little grumpy in my introductory paragraph.
Excuse me, just a moment of honesty slipping out. Lol.

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A carrier horse in the middle of the Peshawar market

Me? Yes! I’ve been busy too.
Busy in the way life usually is. Busy catching up with… I don’t know. Maybe work, life, or simply recovering from one back-to-back trip after another.

But even in the middle of that chaos, I still make time.
Time for the people I love. The three souls I hold closest, my pets and my mum. Because no matter how full my days are, the things that matter don’t get pushed to the side … they get protected.

And strangely enough, despite how exhausted I am right now, there’s a deep sense of satisfaction sitting quietly with me. That familiar reminder: do what you love, love what you do.

I think I love myself most when I’m wandering through unfamiliar lands … when I’m small, curious, and alive … more than when I’m at home, overthinking and worrying about a future that has never once followed my plans anyway.

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Kalash kids in front of their home

I was in Pakistan for the second time last July, travelling once again with my trusted travel mates.

This time, our intention was clear. We were to visit the Kalash people of northern Pakistan. The journey itself was already an adventure. We took a domestic flight from Islamabad to Chitral, followed by a long, winding jeep ride into the remote Kalash Valley. Each turn pulled us farther away from the familiar and deeper into the mountains.

Nestled within the mighty Hindu Kush range, the Kalash Valley is geographically harsh and undeniably rugged. Life here is shaped by altitude, weather, and isolation. But for someone who loves nature, would truly love it — this place is breathtaking in a quiet, humbling way. Towering mountains, raw landscapes, and an overwhelming sense of distance from the modern world make you slow down, look longer, and feel smaller.

It is not an easy place to reach, nor an easy place to live. And perhaps that is exactly what makes it so beautiful.

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I am not sure what kind of game these 2 children from the Kalash valley were playing

In a country where Islam is the dominant religion, the Kalash stand apart as one of Pakistan’s last indigenous mountain communities still holding firmly to their ancestral beliefs. Numbering an estimated three thousand people, the Kalash continue to practise their ancient pagan religion, along with customs and rituals passed down through generations.

Over time, some members of the Kalash community have converted to Islam, choosing to leave behind parts of their traditional belief system and adopt a Muslim way of life. Yet they continue to live alongside their families and neighbours within the valley, a quiet coexistence shaped more by geography than ideology.

What immediately catches the eye are the Kalash women and girls. Every day, they wear thick, black embroidered robes, paired with distinctive headdresses and layers of heavy bead necklaces. Their attire is not reserved for ceremonies or festivals. It is part of daily life, a visible expression of identity and continuity. The men, on the other hand, dress much like other Pakistani men, wearing kurta shirts that blend seamlessly into the broader cultural landscape.

Despite the simplicity of their surroundings, the Kalash live vibrantly. Their colours, rituals, and way of seeing the world feel deeply rooted and unapologetically their own. For me, it is a culture that invites curiosity — one that deserves to be observed slowly, respectfully, and with an open mind.

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My article in NST on how to photograph other cultures

Summer had just begun when I touched down in Islamabad.

It felt slightly ironic, because I almost never choose to travel during the summer. I usually plan my trips around the tail end of winter, spring, or autumn … anything but peak heat. Coming from a country that is hot and humid twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week, I would rather stay home than voluntarily experience another country’s version of summer.

Chitral and the Kalash Valley were easier to handle. The temperatures were similar to home, but the air was drier and often carried a cool mountain breeze. That alone made a huge difference. The heat existed, yes … but it was breathable, almost forgiving.

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Morning chai at a street in Peshawar

Peshawar, however, was a completely different story.

Summer in Peshawar is… wow. Challenging. With daytime temperatures reaching around 38°C but feeling more like 42°C thanks to the greenhouse effect, the heat clings to you. Walking through the narrow market alleys, hemmed in by concrete, crowds, and sun, was not exactly something I looked forward to. Each step felt heavier than the last.

But well… I survived Peshawar.
And sometimes, survival itself becomes part of the travel story.

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Busy street of Peshawar’s old city market

I have always wanted to visit Peshawar.

Years ago, during my university days, one of my professors was from Peshawar. He has since passed away. Taken by dengue a few years ago, but I still remember our conversations clearly. He once told me, very confidently, that the tomatoes in Peshawar were as big as mangoes.

Naturally, that caught my attention.
Tomatoes as big as mangoes? Really? Where does one find such a thing?

Half-joking, half-serious, I told him that one day I would love to visit his hometown, Peshawar, just to see those legendary tomatoes for myself. He laughed, then immediately warned me, “Please don’t go to Peshawar. That place is dangerous. Not somewhere you should walk around.”

Of course, my curious mind has never been very good at listening to the word no.

So there I was, years later, walking through Peshawar … alert, cautious, but very much alive. And yes, I checked the tomatoes.

They were… normal.
Exactly the same size as the tomatoes back home in Malaysia.

I smiled to myself. Not disappointed. Just amused. Some stories aren’t meant to be proven true. They’re meant to stay as memories, attached to people who once told them with conviction, humour, and love for their hometown.

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Busy street of Peshawar’s old city market

Walking the streets of Peshawar as a woman with a camera is not exactly easy. Local customs must be respected, and proper dressing is a must. I wore my favourite black abaya — yes, even in the summer heat — and surprisingly, it helped with the sun. But my gender quickly became a practical obstacle. Walking alone through the markets wasn’t an option; I needed a male companion to navigate safely. Thank God my local guide was both helpful and friendly, which made the wandering process much smoother and far more enjoyable.

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Morning crowd around my hotel in Peshawar, Pakistan

Now, sitting at home and finally recuperating, I ask myself: what do I remember most about Peshawar?

Uhhhh… the food.

I had the most incredible lamb stew of my life. Guys, even better than anything I’ve tasted in Xinjiang. Every meal felt different from what I had in Islamabad, Chitral, or Skardu. I was told that Peshawar’s cuisine is infused with Afghan influence, being just 57 km from the Afghanistan border. And now… naturally, curiosity strikes: what’s the food like in Kabul? Hmmm… one day, I must find out.

For eleven days straight, I overindulged — lamb, chicken, lamb again — three meals a day. Never in my life have I eaten this much meat in a single day. Masya Allah. And it was a happy Masya Allah, because I love lamb. Not to mention, I needed that extra energy for wandering, climbing alleys, and, of course, carrying my ridiculously heavy camera bag.

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My breakfast … roti

What an experience.

I can see myself returning to Pakistan, over and over again. There’s a pull there … the mountains, the valleys, the rawness of the land, the warmth of the people. I can almost feel myself hiking those majestic peaks around Skardu, breathing in the crisp air, and catching the subtle, icy scent of glaciers.

Maybe it’s time to start strengthening my knees and legs — you know, actually preparing for those climbs. I should start tomorrow… or maybe the day after… lol. In Sha Allah, the mountains will wait, and I’ll be ready.

Because if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that the world always rewards the curious, the persistent, and the slightly stubborn. And yes… I fit that description perfectly.

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A little lady from the Kalash valley

Time for bed. Catch you again on my next post.

Cheers

MM

Wandering Soul

New places always excite me.

I could spend hours just wandering and observing my surroundings for something to learn from or just something to look at. Sharing 5 of my favourite portraits that whenever I look at them… I feel like packing my bag and starting wandering on the street again.

Read More »

The Art of Seeing in Northern Pakistan

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Shangri-La Resort at Skardu, Northern Pakistan against the mountains

Yes … I am still digging into my collections of external HD, hunting for hidden treasure. A continuous quest for me or for every photographer out there … a never ending chore to filter thousands of photograph  for just one or two killing images.

While digging … I found a few interesting photos that related to ‘reflection’ that I wanted to share here.  Sharing some photos of the landscape surrounding Shangri-La Resort in Skardu, Northern Pakistan (please excuse my watermark).

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View of Shangri-La Resort at Skardu, Northern Pakistan from a different angle

Capturing reflection either on a puddle of water, on a lake or on some mirrors have a satisfyingly calming effect. The sense of calmness came from my need to be super quiet and totally immersed in the moment, to be able me to notice details in my surrounding such as reflection.

The camera setting to capture reflection is the same setting as capturing photos of any landscape. But our eyes need to be more cautious though, aiming at various angles and at the same time maintaining the best composition. And don’t forget to wait for the right light and the moment when the wind decided to stop meddling with the water surface.

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View of Shangri-La Resort at Skardu, Northern Pakistan with an interesting foreground

Looking back at these photos brought back sweet memories of us in Skardu, Northern Pakistan, we were hanging out at the edge of the lake while waiting for the wind to stay idle for us to capture a perfect reflection of this place.

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Me … enjoying my moment

I think I am more of a traveler than a photographer. Photography is just another reason for me to pack my bag and travel.

So it is kind of annoying when some ‘real’ photographer judging my photography skill based on whatever that I posted on FB after each trip. They’ll ask to see my winning photos of each place that I went … and questioned on why were I still travel to such places when I knew for sure that I can’t even shoot people on the street.

Hmmm. Speechless …

I need to remind myself that I am a traveler first before a photographer.

Having a good photography skill helped me to sharpen my eyes towards details around my surrounding. So … when I traveled … I can see more. The more I see the more I learn. And, if traveling with my camera could turn me into a ‘real’ professional photographer … then I am truly blessed.

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Me … looking down to make sure that my feet still sit on the ground

The world of photography has no boundary … you can be as unique and as creative as wish you could be.

Bye for now

Cheers,

MM

Street walk in Skardu, Pakistan

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A sundry store located behind the main road of Skardu town. 

Morning start late at most places that we stopped in Northern Pakistan. Business venues and markets started around 10am. The time where morning lights were at the most unforgivably harsh.

Not the best moment for a street photographer who love to chase morning ‘dramatic’ lights. But the opportunity to be here … and to witness the  uniqueness and authenticity of this place overcame all my “chasing the light” needs.

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The shop where restaurants or street stalls get their roti supply from.

Everything looked brown, old and rustic here. It felt as if I was in an old movie set.

It was 3:00 o’clock in the afternoon when we decided to stroll along the street and watch life around this small town. The sky turned brown and dusty as a sand stormed has just passed through the town leaving behind a trail of thick lingering dusty air on the street … a normal occurrence around here I guess.

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Old and rustic looking sundry shops 

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Life goes on as always

Fine dusty sands laid everywhere here. My face was dusty and same goes with the rest of the people on the street. I bet I looked rustic too like my environment … I blend well lol.

But … we still looked ‘obviously’ foreign here. This town seldom sees tourist or foreign traveller walking on the street. In fact we were the second group of foreign visitors that stayed in the hotel (that we stayed in) for this year.

I like to walk like an invisible soul when I am on the street. I always imagine that I am invisible … when I am in public 😉 . But the four (4) of us caught too much attention while we were here … maybe because everybody knows everybody in this small little town.

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A fruit seller at the street side

Honestly, I am used to being stared at while I am on a strange or foreign land. Most of the time people would be curious seeing me maybe because of my head cover or my shawl … but I could overcome their curiosity with a sincere smile and a brief greeting.

But here in Pakistan is different.

In a male dominated society, women does not walk on the street without their men. We don’t see women wandering around restaurant or markets too. I saw one or two short glimpse of women on the street but most were fully covered by their long shawls.

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We attracted attention

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The curious crowd circling us

It does felt weird in the beginning of the trip to experience an intensive stares came from the male crowd but as always I learnt a few tricks to get around as I went along.

Maybe next time I should wear a cotton Kurta when I am on the street.

The morning before we catch our flight out of Skardu to Islamabad… we climbed up on our hotel’s rooftop to catch the full view of this town. Mesmerising view we got up there … this place is surrounded by gigantic mountains.

The thing that I like about travelling is … when I have zero expectation about a place and decided to take a risk … and I ended up falling in love with it. It taught me to be open … to stay receptive regardless of whatever condition that I am in … as the end matters the most.

“The only lasting beauty is the beauty of the heart.”~ Rumi

I am signing off right now … 🙂 . Bye …

 

Cheers

MM

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Judgemental Mind of Mine in Pakistan

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A victory toss (with mango and pineapple juice) to celebrate the end of our Pakistan journey

Being human … a normal human being, I admit that I am too quick on judging things. My excuse is that I need to take a good care of ME … my physical, my mental and my heart. I need to safe guard ME. As I grow wise (and aging lol) … an achy breaky me is not easy to recover from either physical or mental torture.

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A stop on our way to Besham, Northern Pakistan

So, I refused (at first) to join my travelling friends on their quest to explore Pakistan. My concerned was upon my safety but towards the last minute I changed my mind. With a good travel companions, a full trust on my ultimate protector (my Creator) and my survival instinct … so I thought the rough Pakistan journey won’t be that bad.

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This is a common view along the road. Most men I saw on the street were wearing kurta (long cotton shirt) instead of T-shirt and jeans. 

I was telling my girlfriend that “if we could survive this trip babe, it would turned out to be our most valuable experience .. ever” and true enough, the journey was tough to the bone but it was worth every second of it. You need to be physically and mentally  strong to truly see the beauty of Pakistan.

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The road was not crowded at all … occasionally you would see decorated lorries, buses and a few private cars.

We travelled from Islamabad-Gilgit-Karimabad-Hunza-Skardu via road and travelled back to Islamabad from Skardu via flight. Driving to Gilgit via the  Islamabad-Mansehra-Nahran-Chilas-Gilgit  would be around 10-11 hours drive but we were unlucky that day as that road was closed for a few months due to landslides. And, we have to travel via alternative road that took us approximately 19 hours to reach Gilgit. Yes … and 19 hours on a rough road felt like a week lol.

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What a view …

Half of the journey was tolerable as we passed through Masya-Allah … the most beautiful and unique landscape view along the way and we drove through small towns after another … a very memorable journey. But after Besham, the roads and the geographical area turned rocky and rough. We were surrounded by rocky gigantic mountains and the road conditions were really bad. As the day turned night … the tough journey became very challenging.

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A quick snap shoot along the road to Gilgit, Northen Pakistan

Police security roadblocks were at every km away and we … the “tourist” have to be safely escorted by the appointed police personnel upon entering Bersham and straight to our hotel in Gilgit.

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At one of the small town after Besham. I didn’t shoot much here as we were rushing through and this was taken from my jeep’s window. 

Tough journey in 10 days either can be a disastrous experience or a rich moment for your soul. I am glad that I made the decision to step out of my comfort zone … alhamdullilah I am a step richer in experience.

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The Eagle’s Nest of Hunza valley, Northern Pakistan

We travelled further up from Gilgit to hunza valley via the famous Karakoram Highway (KKH). The KKH connected Gilgit-Baltisan region, Pakistan to Xinjiang region, China. The highway is listed as the Eighth Wonder of the world due to its high elevation (4,693m) and the difficult geographical conditions in which it was constructed.

The view …. Subhanaallah, I am glad I have eyes to witness how beautiful our earth is. I’ll share some photos in my IG and 500px when I have the time to dig out all of my Pakistan images.

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The Eagle’s Nest of Hunza valley, Northern Pakistan

And here are a few photos taken from my favourite spot in Northern Pakistan … the Hunza Eagle’s Nest. I seriously will come back to this spot for a night camp, just to watch the stars and capture the milkyway crossing over the glaciers … uh tak sabar nya tunggu /uh I can’t wait for our next Pakistan trip.

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The self acclaimed Queen of Eagle’s Nest of Hunza valley at her throne he he he

Hmmm … this photo (above) remind me of the people that I met along the road here in Pakistan. The 10 years old girl, Misbah from Hunza valley. The girl opened up her story about her so called normal life that bring tears to our eyes. Another 10 years old boy, Abdullah from Rawalpindi. A curiously intelligent boy that followed us around the market (near his home). Both are lacking in education and materials but well brougt up with proper manners … a proud and beautiful people, Pakistan ….. I will be back! lol

Uhhh … I need to stop typing words here or else I might sound like an old immobilised ‘makcik’ or aunty that kept on reminiscing on old memories hu hu hu gotta run 🙂 .

Bye for now

Cheers,

MM

 

ps- “Be selective with you battles. Sometimes peace is better than being right.”