Reciprocal kindness in Kalash Valley

I hate the use of the word busy.

“Oh, I’ve been busy.”
“Much busier than you.”
As if life has turned into a quiet competition on who is carrying the heaviest load.

To me, being busy often sounds less like a fact and more like an excuse. A polite way of saying, I chose not to spend my time with you. Because time, after all, is never truly lost. Mind you, that time is allocated. And when someone tells you they are “too busy,” what they are really saying is that their time has been given elsewhere, to something or someone they deemed more important in that moment.

It’s a hard truth, but an honest one. We all make choices. We all prioritise. And sometimes, “busy” is simply the safest word to hide behind when we don’t want to admit those choices out loud.

Hmm… perhaps I’m being a little grumpy in my introductory paragraph.
Excuse me, just a moment of honesty slipping out. Lol.

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A carrier horse in the middle of the Peshawar market

Me? Yes! I’ve been busy too.
Busy in the way life usually is. Busy catching up with… I don’t know. Maybe work, life, or simply recovering from one back-to-back trip after another.

But even in the middle of that chaos, I still make time.
Time for the people I love. The three souls I hold closest, my pets and my mum. Because no matter how full my days are, the things that matter don’t get pushed to the side … they get protected.

And strangely enough, despite how exhausted I am right now, there’s a deep sense of satisfaction sitting quietly with me. That familiar reminder: do what you love, love what you do.

I think I love myself most when I’m wandering through unfamiliar lands … when I’m small, curious, and alive … more than when I’m at home, overthinking and worrying about a future that has never once followed my plans anyway.

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Kalash kids in front of their home

I was in Pakistan for the second time last July, travelling once again with my trusted travel mates.

This time, our intention was clear. We were to visit the Kalash people of northern Pakistan. The journey itself was already an adventure. We took a domestic flight from Islamabad to Chitral, followed by a long, winding jeep ride into the remote Kalash Valley. Each turn pulled us farther away from the familiar and deeper into the mountains.

Nestled within the mighty Hindu Kush range, the Kalash Valley is geographically harsh and undeniably rugged. Life here is shaped by altitude, weather, and isolation. But for someone who loves nature, would truly love it — this place is breathtaking in a quiet, humbling way. Towering mountains, raw landscapes, and an overwhelming sense of distance from the modern world make you slow down, look longer, and feel smaller.

It is not an easy place to reach, nor an easy place to live. And perhaps that is exactly what makes it so beautiful.

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I am not sure what kind of game these 2 children from the Kalash valley were playing

In a country where Islam is the dominant religion, the Kalash stand apart as one of Pakistan’s last indigenous mountain communities still holding firmly to their ancestral beliefs. Numbering an estimated three thousand people, the Kalash continue to practise their ancient pagan religion, along with customs and rituals passed down through generations.

Over time, some members of the Kalash community have converted to Islam, choosing to leave behind parts of their traditional belief system and adopt a Muslim way of life. Yet they continue to live alongside their families and neighbours within the valley, a quiet coexistence shaped more by geography than ideology.

What immediately catches the eye are the Kalash women and girls. Every day, they wear thick, black embroidered robes, paired with distinctive headdresses and layers of heavy bead necklaces. Their attire is not reserved for ceremonies or festivals. It is part of daily life, a visible expression of identity and continuity. The men, on the other hand, dress much like other Pakistani men, wearing kurta shirts that blend seamlessly into the broader cultural landscape.

Despite the simplicity of their surroundings, the Kalash live vibrantly. Their colours, rituals, and way of seeing the world feel deeply rooted and unapologetically their own. For me, it is a culture that invites curiosity — one that deserves to be observed slowly, respectfully, and with an open mind.

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My article in NST on how to photograph other cultures

Summer had just begun when I touched down in Islamabad.

It felt slightly ironic, because I almost never choose to travel during the summer. I usually plan my trips around the tail end of winter, spring, or autumn … anything but peak heat. Coming from a country that is hot and humid twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week, I would rather stay home than voluntarily experience another country’s version of summer.

Chitral and the Kalash Valley were easier to handle. The temperatures were similar to home, but the air was drier and often carried a cool mountain breeze. That alone made a huge difference. The heat existed, yes … but it was breathable, almost forgiving.

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Morning chai at a street in Peshawar

Peshawar, however, was a completely different story.

Summer in Peshawar is… wow. Challenging. With daytime temperatures reaching around 38°C but feeling more like 42°C thanks to the greenhouse effect, the heat clings to you. Walking through the narrow market alleys, hemmed in by concrete, crowds, and sun, was not exactly something I looked forward to. Each step felt heavier than the last.

But well… I survived Peshawar.
And sometimes, survival itself becomes part of the travel story.

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Busy street of Peshawar’s old city market

I have always wanted to visit Peshawar.

Years ago, during my university days, one of my professors was from Peshawar. He has since passed away. Taken by dengue a few years ago, but I still remember our conversations clearly. He once told me, very confidently, that the tomatoes in Peshawar were as big as mangoes.

Naturally, that caught my attention.
Tomatoes as big as mangoes? Really? Where does one find such a thing?

Half-joking, half-serious, I told him that one day I would love to visit his hometown, Peshawar, just to see those legendary tomatoes for myself. He laughed, then immediately warned me, “Please don’t go to Peshawar. That place is dangerous. Not somewhere you should walk around.”

Of course, my curious mind has never been very good at listening to the word no.

So there I was, years later, walking through Peshawar … alert, cautious, but very much alive. And yes, I checked the tomatoes.

They were… normal.
Exactly the same size as the tomatoes back home in Malaysia.

I smiled to myself. Not disappointed. Just amused. Some stories aren’t meant to be proven true. They’re meant to stay as memories, attached to people who once told them with conviction, humour, and love for their hometown.

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Busy street of Peshawar’s old city market

Walking the streets of Peshawar as a woman with a camera is not exactly easy. Local customs must be respected, and proper dressing is a must. I wore my favourite black abaya — yes, even in the summer heat — and surprisingly, it helped with the sun. But my gender quickly became a practical obstacle. Walking alone through the markets wasn’t an option; I needed a male companion to navigate safely. Thank God my local guide was both helpful and friendly, which made the wandering process much smoother and far more enjoyable.

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Morning crowd around my hotel in Peshawar, Pakistan

Now, sitting at home and finally recuperating, I ask myself: what do I remember most about Peshawar?

Uhhhh… the food.

I had the most incredible lamb stew of my life. Guys, even better than anything I’ve tasted in Xinjiang. Every meal felt different from what I had in Islamabad, Chitral, or Skardu. I was told that Peshawar’s cuisine is infused with Afghan influence, being just 57 km from the Afghanistan border. And now… naturally, curiosity strikes: what’s the food like in Kabul? Hmmm… one day, I must find out.

For eleven days straight, I overindulged — lamb, chicken, lamb again — three meals a day. Never in my life have I eaten this much meat in a single day. Masya Allah. And it was a happy Masya Allah, because I love lamb. Not to mention, I needed that extra energy for wandering, climbing alleys, and, of course, carrying my ridiculously heavy camera bag.

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My breakfast … roti

What an experience.

I can see myself returning to Pakistan, over and over again. There’s a pull there … the mountains, the valleys, the rawness of the land, the warmth of the people. I can almost feel myself hiking those majestic peaks around Skardu, breathing in the crisp air, and catching the subtle, icy scent of glaciers.

Maybe it’s time to start strengthening my knees and legs — you know, actually preparing for those climbs. I should start tomorrow… or maybe the day after… lol. In Sha Allah, the mountains will wait, and I’ll be ready.

Because if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that the world always rewards the curious, the persistent, and the slightly stubborn. And yes… I fit that description perfectly.

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A little lady from the Kalash valley

Time for bed. Catch you again on my next post.

Cheers

MM

LOTR moment at Tongariro National Park

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A seagull checking on me while I was staring at the view of the Wellington Habour

I am in Wellington, New Zealand at this time being.

Accompanying my daughter for her first-year University registration here in the city. Spent 2 weeks here with her, exploring the city and its surroundings while at the same time trying to make her comfortable with this new place where she would call her second home for the next 3 years.

Being a green brain, I got bored with CITY easily. Flipped through the “Free guide to NZ” Arrival magazine that I took from the airport, the turquoise colour of an acid lake in South Crater valley of Tongariro National Park caught my attention. But … naaaah! 8-hours walk of a total 19.4km would kill me instantly … so I think.

Then … I got really bored and kept thinking of that National Park.

The view of the mountains – Mt. Tongariro 1967m, Mt. Ngauruhoe  2291m (Mt Doom in the Lord of the Rings filming locations) and Mt. Ruapehu 2797m – make me more curious and I can’t hold it anymore and I purchased my Intercity bus ticket from Wellington to National Park station for the next day trip. And booked my 2 nights stay at YHA hostel, National Park.

I said to myself … fine, I just have a look at the park and walk around the easiest trail while enjoying my favourite thing to do when I am alone, breath in and breath out the air of freedom – the mountain fresh air, hmmm nice – it feels like home, comfortable.

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View in front of the hostel where I was staying. Well, look at that … thick clouds covering Mt Ruapehu. Not a clear weather to do the crossing

I don’t mind travel alone as I don’t have the urge to talk or even binge talk to anyone because most of the time my mind is always fully occupied with my own thoughts and imagination. I tend to forget about my surroundings too.

New Zealanders are super cool and very helpful too.

My first time in NZ … ohh I love New Zealanders as they treated me more as a co-human than as a strange Muslim lady with a head covered wandering loose alone.

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The view of Mt Ruapehu without the thick clouds

The weather was not very good on the day that I arrived at the National Park.

Raining with thick fogs surrounding the valleys. While contemplating either I want to do the crossing or just hang around, a group of people popped into the hostel front desk returning their gears. They just did the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in the rain and the thick fogs … and with their red and cheerful face even when they were soaking wet.

Damn it … I said to myself.

And this guy from Thailand with a wide happy eye just bluntly tell me … hey! have you done the crossing? If you haven’t, you better just do it … even if the weather is like this, it would be worth every single second.

And guess what … I paid the 40 NZ dollars for the National Park return transportation and rented a waterproof boot, a walking pole and a raincoat. I fixed my mind … I am all in for this. Just like that.

I need to see what the havoc is all about. Well … well … well … bare in mind that I hate trekking, I am not well trained and I am not even sure which box to tick in as Lucy, the front desk lady passed me a form to fill in … which level of mountain trekker am I? should I tick the beginner box?

As I am not even a beginner lol coz I am the type of person if given a choice where to park my car at the shopping mall … I would always choose the one very very very near to the entrance door.

Well … done with that. Lucy asked me … what makes me decide to do this? And I said “hmmm, I just wanna get over this. This curiosity bugs me” and she laughed.

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The park signboard … I had a goofy feeling while looking at this

Omg … It was a beautiful sight as I first stepped in the Mangatepopo car park but as I looked at the signboard (above) I got really scared. “Urghh I am so gonna die,” I told myself lol.

Overall from the opptimistic point of view, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is worth every second of the 8 hours walk despite the thick fog and the occasional rain. I managed to click a few photos with my iPhone while struggling to keep up with the trails.

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The beginning

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Moving forward with the running water sound coming from the stream along the way

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The moody and wet surrounding has that calming effect on me

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And the horror parts came … the trail starts ascending

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And this view as I looked down at my trails

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This is the point where we start descending and trolling along the longest 11.3km in my whole entire life. Honestly … I never walk this far in my entire life

As I continue for another 11.3 km trails to Ketetahi Carpak the weather started getting irritated. The fogs thicken, the temperature started to drop further down (9-12 degree) as the raindrops started to clouds my glasses.

Omg, I was standing on a narrow trail between 2 very steep craters while my feet were shaken due to lack of sugar aka energy and my glasses was clouded. The sulfur smell filled the air. The air was super foggy, truly looked like from a sci-fi movie this place is.

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This is the turquoise colored lake that I saw in the magazine, the one that makes me want to visit this place

I was tired … near to the point of  ‘I want to give up’ mode. I kept reminding myself that if I quit in the middle of the trail, I have to pay NZ500. The cost to rescue you out of this place. But this place even in its worst weather is uniquely beautiful and I couldn’t help wondering to myself, how would this place look like if the weather is beautiful?

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Passing a flat crater before trekking up again in thick fog

It was all foggy and raining the whole journey down towards the carpark and I didn’t take many photos as I was super-super exhausted. This trail is not for beginners but maybe for intermediate trekkers. You need to be well prepared if you decided to do the crossing. It was so hard for me and I still have sore muscles all over my body now (after 3 days).

I cried at the very last 6.3km, as my feet could not take it anymore.

I discovered how does it feels when you are too damn tired but you still need to go on. I discovered that I am mentally strong even when I am alone.  I discovered the feeling of helplessness when my feet were out of its physical strength but with my will to go on and survive, I ended up winning.

Other trekkers passed by me one after another leaving me alone struggling with my incapabilities. I discovered how sad it is to be left behind. Oh and I really hate that feeling of being left behind, it is lonely … but I kept my chin up and walk slowly imagining myself doing a brisk walk at my most favourite park.

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Struggling even to lift up my iPhone, ohh I am not fit … something that I need to work on

Would I do this again?

Minus all my self-discovery moments, weirdly I would say yes.

I am not done yet with this place. I definitely would do this again maybe in December when summer is here. I want to capture the beautiful landscape of this place in its most beautiful setting but I am gonna make sure that my body is fit enough to do this … so that I could see more and enjoy more of this place.

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I saw colourful plants along the crossing trail … very interesting

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The trail from my STRAVA 

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My shaky feet with that rented waterproof boot after the 8 hours journey. Yaaay! I walked 19.4km for 8 hours … victory!

Conclusion:

Feb 28, 2018. I walk the 19.4km Tongariro Alpine Crossing on my own in 6 hours. I took 37,000 steps that day equivalent to climbing 139 floors. My first time. I survived with a 3-days worth body muscle ache but feeling alive and spiritually nourished. I am glad I decided to give it a try … to push myself to exceed my limit.

That night I had the worst sore muscle ever. Sooth my body with some boiled eggs and a litre of protein (fresh milk). I hit my bed early at 9pm while listening to my best friend’s voice on the phone, soothing me down with his calm voice. He thinks that I am crazy but I assured him that at least I didn’t die.

I took the next day bus to Wellington with a victory and a bliss feeling. Alhamdullilah.

I plan to explore more of NZ during these 3 years, taking it slowly and meaningfully. Learning to improve me … while inspiring my children and people around me to do more in life than just merely living. Anybody can do this. Just do it, no excuses, please.

Excuses are just for the weaklings, and I am not!

Bye for now

 

 

Cheers,

MM

New Zealand: Tongariro National Park February 27th to March 1st, 2018

 

 

Street thrill in Dhaka

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A woman we met at a village outskirts of Dhaka

It was all about capturing moments of human interest when I was in Dhaka, Bangladesh recently. My first time and like always, I have a zero expectation of this place … I was like ok Dhaka surprise me, please.

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Friends shading from the early morning rain on the street of Dhaka

It rained cats and dogs during the first 3 days of my 6 days stay. But being a hardcore wanderer … the rain couldn’t subside my curiosity. I was out wandering along the markets and back lanes of Dhaka … in the rain.

My first impression was that the street smells pleasant.

Surprisingly Dhaka is way cleaner than India, 10 times cleaner than India … I shall think so. At least the street is not treated as the public toilet by the 18.2 million city residents. People everywhere seemed busy and fully occupied here.

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A peak from the train window in Dhaka

My second impression is … the food is good.

It tastes about the same as in India, Pakistan and Nepal.  And my taste buds think that the biryani here is very delicious and I had mutton biryani for almost every day here too. Sharing a clip video ↓ of my obsession with mutton biryani … obsession lol?

We traveled in a big group this time around … 15 of us scattered around the street yet we saw completely different views. How awesome was that? When I saw my friends posted their version of ‘the street of Dhaka’, almost always I would pound my head and asked myself about why oh why I did not see it from their angles.

It is proven then … every each of us is unique in our own way.

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Hard life for an honest living in Dhaka

As I strolled along the streets, villages and some back alleys I saw hard work and hard life here … yet the people of Dhaka is rich in hospitality. Walking and talking with strangers has never felt a burden here … some even invited us to their homes for a cup of cha or tea.

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A boatman trying to make an honest living in Dhaka

To be honest, there are hundreds and probably thousands of Bangladeshi working here in my home country Malaysia. I see them everywhere and every day too. When I posted my whereabouts to a group of friends … they jokingly teased me on why the need to be in Dhaka when I can just hang out at Pasar Borong Selayang (a wholesale market in the heart of KL) or the famous Chowkit road and just be surrounded by them?

It is normal to have that tendency to treat foreign workers at your country home differently ( I guess I am guilty too)  but being in Dhaka … experiencing just a few days living in their home country does change my perspective.

I see them in a different way now … a more human way of looking at fellow humans trying their best to survive in the high-density human populated area on our one and only earth.

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Boats at Buriganga River in the middle of Dhaka

Would I recommend Dhaka for your next trip? Should I repeat for another round of trip exploring Dhaka?

………. absolutely, yes!

Thanks for dropping by here at my space… on the last day of 2017. Resolution time … resolution … resolution. Bye …

Cheers

MM

ps: my January article in NST bots on ‘People at Work’ with Dhaka as the background story. NST 01:18

Yes … the street of India

IND_9528Re-visiting my India’s photos for my latest NST assignment to celebrate Deepavali or Dewali. All these photos bring back memories of me surviving India and I think its time to repeat India again.

I am yearning to experience another round of emotional burst … in India maybe in 2018.

Sharing a few more photos of the bustling street of Old Delhi, New Delhi.

And my article on India for the NST readers is turning out well too, alhamdullilah. I am sharing it here for my own future reference.

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Bye for now.

 

Cheers

MM

 

ps- buzzing head … need to stay focus!

Secret Hideout in Kuala Terengganu

IMG_2322I found a new secret hideout in Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu, Malaysia.

A simple, quiet and rusty place for an introvert soul, like mine … or let me rephrase it again, an OLD and worn out soul like mine. Lol … Selfish me, everything has to be like mine … mine all mine, no sharing and I do not want to share my soulmate either (if I ever have any) … gth! mental … oh yes!

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Pak Awi’s Yellow House located at Pulau Duyung, Kuala Terengganu

Kuala Terengganu has a few small islands in-between the mainland and Pulau Duyung (Duyung Island) is the largest island. I flew over the islands during a paramotor event last 2 years. Never occurred to me that there are interesting stories to explore down there on the islands.

 

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Well … Pak Awi didn’t pay me anything to promote his place so don’t get me wrong. I just love the place.

I found a new hidden place that I could stay for a few days or even weeks without creating a big hole in my wallet. A cool and safe place to go home to after hours and hours wandering around Kuala Terengganu.

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Lepaking at one of the bench 

What would I do here in Kuala Terengganu? Hmmm … I am going for a story hunting and I myself not sure what is the outcome gonna look like, lol.

I plan to hang around with the makciks (mid-aged ladies) around the villages listening to them gossiping he he he and the pakciks (middle-aged man) around the coffee shops or jetties reminiscing about life. Tengok berapa lama boleh tahan … the rest is a secret.

A few more photos of my new found hiding place before I end this post.

Last but not least … my all time favorite breakfast, Nasi Kerabu.  A blue colored rice mixed with fresh vegetables, salted egg, stuffed green chili pepper, a piece of roasted chicken and sambal (chili paste). Wallah … am hungry now … gotta run.

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Bye

Cheers,

MM

ps- sambil dengar lagu “kutuliskan kesedihan, semua tak bisa kau ungkapkan, dan kita kan bicara dengan hatiku” dan perut yang lapar